2008 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA

As expected, the aromas here have evolved but not fundamentally changed after an additional ten years in bottle. Dark cherry and cedar still dominate, although there’s significantly more black pepper and baking spice. Some of the latter is undoubtedly from the cooperage, as barrel character tends to become unmasked over time. But the fruit profile, which threads the needle between ripe and restrained, is quite remarkable. At first, it’s modern and lavish. After a few moments, it’s classic and complex. A beautiful wine.

The palate is quite energetic with bright red fruit, plenty of acidity, and ample texture. The breadth of flavor is on display here as this vintage rewarded precision over power. That translates to extremely fine grain tannins and a laser focus on earth and minerality in addition to fresh plum and dried strawberry. This is truly a wine of place, reflecting the genuine character of the 2008 growing season and the Montelena Estate.

The earthy texture peaks during the finish but never overshadows the dried cherry and tobacco notes, which slowly rise to the forefront. The acidity has mellowed quite a bit, into a candy-like existence, contrasting hints of cocoa and briar. Interestingly, it’s the tannin that lingers, inviting another sip.